Clarewalsh's Blog

Vietnam’s premier diving destination – Nha Trang is also the beach capital. It lacks the charm of Mui Nui, which was a stop on the 11 hour bus ride from Saigon. Mui Nui is a charming little town, with a real resort feel to it, minus the high-rise hotel set. Nha Trang, on the other hand, is a strong hold of high-rise hotels, including the Sheraton and construction of some other big names is underway. This buzzing little town – population of 340,000 – has plenty to offer the tourists, primarily sea based activities.

The journey from Saigon was visually stunning, leaving the low lands of the Mekong Delta and rice fields, the journey makes for the amazing sand dunes surrounding Mui Ne, however, stunning and all as they are, they are juvenile in comparison to the amazing Gobi Desert dunes.

The landscape changes further on up the coast to take in the mountains of the central highlands, the road skirting between the coast and the mountain.
Although the journey is only 440km, it takes 11 hours. The single carriageway paved road slows the journey down, although the drivers overtake slow lorries at every opportunity. The incessant beeping of the horn serves as a warning to all the bikes on the road, along with animals at times! This I block out by listening to some of my favourites – The Killers, Tom Baxter and a few others – all reminders of the long journeys in Argentina. Them and ear plugs!

After arriving at 7pm, it’s dark and there’s not much opportunity to look around. One full day here, and it’s time to move on. The day is taken up with looking around the town, booking onward travel and of course relaxing by the beach!

One day was enough for me, unless you are interested in diving or just lying by the beaches, there’s not much else to do. Of course there is a pagoda and some other relics of worth. Moving onwards, I take the 5.30am train to Hoi An, described as the historic jewel of Vietnam. Time will tell. In the meantime, I look forward to the train ride and the beautiful scenery the coastline has to offer.

Also formally known as Ho Chi Minh City, this place is buzzing with the hum of motorbikes. With a population of approximately 7 million people, it is estimated half of them own a motorbike, although the stats say that there are only 900, 000 licenses.   The bikes are often packed with people (I’ve counted four on one) and piled high with merchandise. However, for all the motorbikes on the road, there appears to be few accidents and everyone appears to be good humoured when it comes to navigating the streets and roundabouts. The motorbikes move like a shoal of fish, ebbing and flowing around the obstacles. It’s remarkable to watch. It’s daunting trying to cross the street though, with motorbikes not only going against the traffic but regularly using the footpath too. The only way to cross the street is to walk while keeping your eyes peeled, there can be a wall of ten to eleven bikes coming towards you at one time. But if you stand your ground and keep moving the bikes will flow around you.

I spend three days here in total, too long in the usual scheme of this travel, but I wanted to spend Christmas day somewhere peaceful and not on the road. The city is easy to navigate as it is divided into 16 districts and many places of interest are within walking distance of District 1, which is the main backpackers area. I got in some of the sights including the Reunification Palace, War Remnants Museum and the Notre Dame church. The Pham Ngu Lao area has plenty of western type restaurants, but you don’t have to travel too far to find a traditional Vietnamese eatery. Many of the Vietnamise don’t speak English, unlike the Cambodians. However, while trying the decifer the menu in a Vietnamese restaurant – which wouldn’t be a problem if I wasn’t a vegetarian – a Vietnamese English teacher kindly stepped in to translate and then stayed with us for a chat. He wanted to practice his English and I was delighted to talk to him about teaching and life in Vietnam. Good food and great lesson in Vietnamese culture.

Christmas day was great, relaxed in the peace and quite beside a pool, which I had to myself all day. My companion for the day was a great book – Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance – a fantastic gem of a book.

After three days here it really is time to move on. With the main aim of getting to Halong Bay in the north, I have to get my skates on. Next destination – Nha Trang on the south central coast.

The tear shaped island lies in the Gulf of Thailand, 15km south of the coast of Cambodia. This is Vietnam’s largest island and is deemed to be everything a tropical island is supposed to be – white sand beaches and turquoise waters on the coast and dense tropical jungle inland. The main resort area is Long beach, just south of Duong Dong town. The resort area consists of accommodation catering for all budgets. I set up camp here for a couple of days. The area is very peaceful, I arrive just before the onslaught of those wishing to spend Christmas on the island, it’s a very popular place for families and couples.   It’s easy to while away the time sitting by the beach, but I want to see some of the island as well.

This island is my first real experience of Vietnamese people and culture. My first impressions are built around the vast difference between these people and their Cambodian neighbours. I’m interested to see if these first impressions are correct. Time will tell.

My two full days on the island involve long walks on Sunday, right down beach – there is no time for lying by the beach! A trip to the town in the evening and I take a walk through the market, which is amazing. I’m the only traveller there. Monday is taken up with a snorkeling and fishing trip, both of which I have little interest in, but it’s  a great way to see some of the islands located around the south. Known as the An Thoi archipelago, it consists of 12 islands. The trip very much caters for all types – families, couples, groups and so on. However, it appears that there is little concern for the environment here. These independent operators make a living from the local environment, but there appears to no thought given to protecting this beautiful area. The anchor is thrown down into the coral with little regard, snorkelers and swimmers are given no guidance on responsible behaviour and the rubbish is just thrown overboard. These actions are not sustainable long-term. Who knows what this island will be like in ten years time! While I was there, there was major road construction and building works going on.  This place will be the Puket of Thailand in time.

After two days it’s time to leave. Taking the 8am ferry to Rach Gia, the trip takes three hours in rough seas. I managed to keep all thoughts of nausea out of my mind, although many others didn’t. The fast ferry was battered by high winds and big waves for two of the three hours. I was glad to see the end of that journey. A seven hour bus ride takes us all the way over the Mekong Delta, where at one stage, we cross over this vast river in a car ferry.   There are many private bus companies, and the competition between them makes bus travel very affordable. Five dollars for the trip. I meet a group of English lads en route and go District 1  of Saigon which is equivalent to Bangkok’s  Khao San road area of the city. This is real backpackers territory, with a wide range of accommodations to choose from. By the time I arrive, I’ve been on the road for 10 hours.

After a day and half, it’s time to move on. I’ve spent a week in Cambodia. I didn’t make it to the northeast, but I must continue onwards or my time in Vietnam will be cut short. Leaving at 8am, I take a shared minibus with five others, three of which are travelling to Kampot, while myself and a French man I met in Sihanoukville travel together. The journey gives interesting views of the countryside as we travel on mostly back roads that take us to the border crossing of Prek Chak.

This trip brings back memories of Boris, traveling on red coloured dirt tracks, but instead of six we are two. We pass through many rural villages and also through Kampot & Kep. I’m very happy to bypass these towns…more of the same. The driver is careful but speeds along where the track is straight and without holes.  The trip in total to the border takes 3 hours. Passing through this sleepy border takes a short time as there are not many using it. The vietnamise officials are mostly concerned with encouraging us to take a taxi – as recommended by them – there are not many options as the town we need to travel to – Ha Tien – is about 10km away. The air of corruption is rampant and almost funny. The border requires you to deal with three individuals. One of them demands a dollar from each of us crossing as he processes some paperwork. Immediately, the dollar goes into the said officials pocket! They do well in the few minutes it takes us to get through. Myself and the French man, while a Canadian couple come behind us. Four dollars in as many minutes… easy work if you can get it. For us, we just shrug our shoulders and laugh, what’s the point in arguing over a dollar.

With no bookings for the ferry or indeed the island, we are keen to move on and make our way to Ha Tien. This town serves daily trips to and from the island. We arrive in plenty of time for the 1pm ferry, which leaves about 1.30, the trip taking 1 1/2 hours. As usual, I feel nauseous a few minutes into the trip and have to spend most of the journey standing outside beside the smelly noisy engines! I rather be deafened than vomiting! Finally, after travelling for almost 6 hours we arrive on the island and begin the task of finding somewhere to stay – an easy task as there are plenty of people willing to recommend places. The usual, drivers on commission.

Moving eastwards, I head to the coastal town of Sihanoukville, which is located in the south-east of Cambodia. I have no particular reason for stopping here other than it’s on my way to somewhere else. The LP describes it as ‘Cambodia’s premier sea-side resort’, which should be enough of a giveaway!

The four-hour journey is spectacular. Leaving the city, we drive through numerous markets, where the locals and businesses are buying fruit and vegetables for the day. I want to shout at the driver to stop and let me off so I can take some photos!! The colours are amazing, the dirt spectacular. The countryside changes from the flat rice paddy fields of the northwest to hills and forests. The buses usually stop after a couple of hours to let travellers off for a snack. As normal, I’m traveling on a public bus, with only two other travellers –  people I bump into in my stay there. Unfortunately, I haven’t got the stomach of Asians, and cannot bear to eat noodle soup or rice at 9am. I go for the fresh pineapple, which is located beside a giant tray of fried spiders! These are largest things I’ve seen and put my resident spiders to shame!

Arrival in Sihanoukville my expectations in terms of the town are met. Sprawling and unkempt. We have just arrived at the tail end of a huge storm, with the water cascading down the streets. The smells are far from fresh!

Sihanoukville consists of a sprawling town, the livest area of which is the Serendipity area. The beach strip is home to a host of bars and restaurants, although the beach itself is very narrow, only about a metre wide. Relaxing here for the afternoon, it is evident this is a party zone at night-time. By 4pm, there is evidence of those, maybe worst from wear from the night before, covered with a range of plasters and bandages from falls on the rocks.

With plans to spend only a full day here, I book a trip to Ream National Park. The park consists of 150 sq km of forests. The ranger led trip involved a boat trip up the Prek Toeuk Sap estuary, a trek through some forest that leads to white sandy beaches. We don’t see any wildlife of merit, but we do walk through a small village where the local kids are playing outside the school. By law, all the kids are supposed to attend school, but by all accounts the schooling they receive is minimal due to the fact that teachers are paid 30 dollars a month. There is no incentive for them to make an effort, with many of them letting the children do as they please. Hence, Cambodian families that can afford to, have their children schooled in the private education centres after finishing their day at public school. The same teachers take these private lessons!

Later I meet some of the people from the trip and we wander around the town and find a nice local Khmer place for dinner.  The next morning, I’m up early to travel onwards to Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc. I decide to skip the towns of Kampot and Kep. Goodbye Cambodia, hello Vietnam!

The Cambodian capital is home to some 1.3 million people, I feel like I touched shoulders with at least half of them in my short stay in this city. The former French colony has interesting architecture, if you are into that. The grid system makes navigating the city simple enough. The first port of call on arrival is to haggle a good price to the guesthouse, there seems to be a mafia situation at the bus depot, but I negotiate the best deal I can. Travel by tuk tuk allows good views of the city, with the drivers six deep on most roads, with every driver for himself on the cross roads. Only major junctions have traffic lights, which makes travel through the city interesting to say the least!

The noisy polluted city has a range of sites catering for many types of visitors. The must see unique sites however date back only 30 years to the Khmer Rouge period. This devastating period in Cambodian history, where it is still not known how many died during the three years, eight months and 20 days of Khmer Rouge rule. Figures are estimated that at least 1.7 million people perished at the hands of the Pol Pot regime. Many more died in the ensuing famine following liberation by the Vietnamese.

Phnom Penh is home to Tuol Sleng museum, also known as Security Prison 21 (S21). Once a centre of learning, Pol Pot took over the school and transformed the classrooms into torture chambers. It was an incarceration to some 17000 men, women and children and the largest of its kind in the country. Most of these people were executed in the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. Like the Nazi’s, the Khmer Rouge kept meticulous records of each prisoner. S21 displays at least 200 photos of some of men, women and children that passed through. This place leaves the visitor under no illusions on the horrific genocide that took place. The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek is located about 15km south-west of the city, the journey there gives a good view of local life. Again, a vist to this killing field, one of 380 in the country, leaves you under no illusion of the atrocities carried out. With only Duce alive to stand trial for crimes against humanity, the hearings are expected to wrap up in March 2010. One final point to put this whole period in context – 189 prisons, 380 killing fields, 19,403 mass graves, over 1.7 million people slain. Many were bludgeoned to death, due to a shortage of bullets.

The primary reason for the day and half stop was to visit these two sites. I also managed to squeeze in a visit to the Royal Palace, and see some of the notable areas of the town. Unfortunately walking around this city is near to impossible, the footpaths are taken over street vendors or in such terrible repair, that more than often you are forced to walk on the street. Every second moto or tuk tuk driver stops ‘you want tuk tuk’, after a while, it’s easier to travel with them than saying ‘no thank you’ one million times!

After a busy day, it’s to bed early (9pm after a 5am start) it’s time to catch some sleep before the four hour bus ride to Sihanoukville.

Escaping on the early bus out of Siem Reap and heading for the Cambodia capital, some 300km away. The main route is paved, so the journey is comfortable. My travel companion –  a young American guy – I already know as we stayed in the same guest house. I know part of his story, as he quickly divulged it the night before. The twenty one year old uncertified music teacher is in Cambodia to meet his biological father for the first time!

By 8am my companion has also casually shared with me that he has already taken a couple of Valium and dislikes social situations….all elements of a condition he describes as Aspergers.  Drinking a can of Angor beer and munching some fried crickets, my travel friend – with the most Irish of names (RP) – tells me of the daily difficulties he faces.  The five hour trip flies by – the well read Ross telling me, amongst other things, that he can see many comparisons between himself and Raskolnikov, the main character of Dostoevsky’s ‘Crime and Punishment. The tortured soul.

He gives me some useful advice on some good sights and we part ways at Phnom Penh bus depot.  I only have to deal with getting the best deal from a tuk tuk driver.

The main reason to visit Siem Reap of course is to see the infamous ‘8th wonder of the world’ Angkor Wat and surrounding temples. The town is well serviced to meet the needs of some 2 million annual tourists with over 200 hotels and guest houses. As you can imagine, tourism is main source of income in this area. However, see past all the fine hotels and there is a lot of poverty. If you are up early in the morning, you will see the street kids, dressed in rags, collecting plastic, cans and bottles from bins. They can generate a little income from recycling this material.

On my arrival here, I quickly throw on a pair of shorts and t-shirt to see the local town, but not before having some food – it’s a long time since dinner the evening before in Bangkok!!!

Wanting to see the town on foot, I have to navigate tuk-tuk drivers, work men and of course the crazy moto drivers! Even crossing the street here you take your life in your hands!! The town is easy to navigate and not so big. Walking along the Siem Reap river I pass work men (and women) paving the roads. The down town market area caters for the tourist only. Over inflated prices for everything.

After a couple of hours wandering around in the intense afternoon heat, the early start is taking it’s toll. It’s time to head back to the hostel. With the best of intentions, I put my head down for a little rest….5 hours later I wake!! There’s nothing for it, but to hop into the pj’s and go to bed! Sleeping like a log, I wake up at 5am, all refreshed and ready to go! With a tuk-tuk already organised, I get ready for a day of temple discovery! Suncream, water, hat. I’m ready. Eight
hours and eight temples later, I’m all templed out. Will definelty not be doing another day of this, I tell myself! Angkor Wat is the first port of call, a short 7km away, passing the ticket desk on the way. 20 US dollars for one day. Navigating past all the kids selling postcards, books, bracelets, these trained little sellers, set the scene for the day. Each child will ask you where you are from and immediately recite the capital. Some even have a few words of Irish! Conas a ta tu?
The temples are a must see for any traveler to Cambodia, it would be a great shame to come here and not see them. However, there are hoards of tourists here, it doesn’t matter what time of the day or night. Sunrise or sunset, tourists elbow each other to get that famous shot. Lined five or six deep.

A day of discovery and intense sunshine drives me back to the guesthouse. On my return there I get chatting to a german girl from the former GDR who arrived the previous evening. We head out for food with a German couple she met at the airport in Laos. So, off we trek to a local eatery for a buffet and a local Cambodian show. The tango it was not, more like a Cambodian version of Riverdance! However, it gave a feel for history and tradition of the people, very colourful, with the stories easy to follow! My german friends tuck into the buffet with gusto!

Already here almost two days, I make plans for the final day, tonle sap lake is supposed to be beautiful. However, a ‘funny tummy’ requires me to keep close to the guesthouse, and there I spend my last day in Siem Reap. Although not feeling the best, I try to make good use of the day by finishing off ‘The Gate’. With an early start and the ‘funny tummy’ my plans to see the town at night are shelved. It’s time to leave. Two and half days here is probably a little too long. Roll on Phnom Penh.

After a couple of days in Bangkok, it was time to move on. The bustle of the city behind me, I headed for the North & Northeast bus terminal, located about 10 miles north of the city centre. With public buses running every 30 minutes from the terminal to the Cambodia border at Aranya Prathet, I decided to get the 4am bus. This is the most popular of the six Thai/Cambodia border crossings. The bus only half full, the only other travller was Mr Lee Song Kyo, a middle aged man (maybe older!) from south Korea, who quickly introduced himself. My travel campanion was going to Siem Reap as well, although, a somewhat seasoned traveller to these parts, with this his fifth trip to Cambodia.

The bus trip, taking just under four hours, flew by. Thai drivers don’t hang around, overtaking slow trucks, moto drivers and the rest at every opportunity. The dawn gave a great view of the early part of the 465 km total journey. With quick stops to pick up and drop off passengers, we made great time to the border. Of course, the usual scrum of touts looking for business swamped us disembarking the bus. However, the bus left us off rigth at the border, with only a short walk to clear Thai immigration. Myself and my south Korean friend were the only foreigners at this early hour of the morning. The Cambodian border is only a further short walk to Poipet, where there are border ambassadors whose job is to guide foreigners through the formalities. Sun Chandy immediately introduced himself while we walked to the border and explained the process. Again, at 8am in the morning, there were no other foreigners. However the numbers crossing over at each side was amazing, the noise from Thai’s and Cambodians queing. Apparently this border is a popular point for Thai’s availing of the casino’s located in Poipet. With the formalities completed, (two sets of paperwork) myself and my companion are guided by our good humoured ambassador to the government bus to take us to Piopet town centre, which is located a 2 minute ride away. The bus is for foreigners only. At the centre we organise our onward travel. Two options. Take a government bus or take a share taxi. With both of us keen to move on, myself and Mr Lee share the price of the ride for the two hour journey. Luckily, the route is now paved, although, the driver sits on the horn for the entire journey, warning other moto drivers, cyclists and other road users that he is approaching. The journey gives a good view of the Cambodian countryside, stilt houses, paddy fields, poverty. The flat countryside is broken by hills in the distance and the odd random tree standing on it’s own. The many road signs ask tourists to be responsible in relation to child abuse. Child prositution is a big problem here. At the entrance to Siem Reap I say goodbye to Mr Lee whose parting words are ‘be careful’. Hounded by tuk tuk drivers I take a ride to the guest house, where I already had a booking. Bangkok to Siem Reap all before 12 noon.